In search of cosmetics that don’t cause acne

Dear Bionic Beauty,
I’ve been digging through my local drugstore for new makeup and skincare. Can you give me some guidance on what ingredients can cause acne? I have semi-sensitive skin but take good care of it. I just want to make the best choice possible and not end up with something loaded with acne causing ingredients even though it says “non-comedogenic”?
Thank you!
Skincare gal

Hi Skincare Gal,
Nice to meet you (consider this me shaking your virtual hand). I’m right there with you on the digging through drugstores. I think my local Walgreens and CVS sale reps know my name and don’t even bother asking me for help anymore. Actually, they ask me what the up n’ comers are. Anyhow, it can be tough finding good-for-your-skin items at a drugstore, but certainly not impossible.

I’m going to give you a list of common acne causing ingredients and then also a HUGE table that rates a multitude of ingredients on their irritant and ability to cause acne. Until I was comfortable with this knowledge, I printed it on a sheet of paper and tucked it into the side pocket of my cell phone holder. That way wherever I went, I was guaranteed to have my “list” with me. It’s totally creased and I admit, a bit grubby from me toting it around. But… it *is* handy.

I hope this information helps you in your cosmetics search. Don’t lose hope!
Cheers,
Bionic Beauty

Continue reading for common acne baddies and their ratings from the Acne Institute.

Lanolin – An oil extracted from lamb’s wool (it’s sheep waterproofing!). While lanolin usually won’t bother people who are not prone to acne, it can cause flare ups in people who are sensitive or easily breakout. Common lanolin derivatives in cosmetics include etoxylated lanolins and acetylated lanolins. These ’synthetic’ lanolins can penetrate your pores even better than true lanolin (yeah, scary). If you’re looking for a safe lanolin option, find a source of 100% pure lanolin oil.

Isopropyl Myristate – This ingredient is a penetrating serious offender to the skin and can be found in many cosmetics. Its purpose is to apply “slip” allowing it to go on more smoothly. This is the ingredient that makes cosmetics and lotions feel “sheer” and slippery/slick. Common relatives are: legion, isopropyl palmitate and isostearate, butyl stearate, octyl stearate, and isocetyl stearate, and myristate myristate.

D&C Pigments – Some of the FDA approved D&C red dyes (which are derived from coal tars) are known to be acne causing. A few red pigments, for example D&C Red #9 and D&C Red #40, have been tested for comedogenicity (acne causing ability) and were found to be higher on the scale of acne-causing red pigments- so keep an eye out for these in particular.

Sodium Laurel Sulfate – Very commonly found in a wide variety of skin and hair products. Sulfates are detergents and strippers; they make the foaming you’re used to. It leaves a film on the skin and penetrates into the pore, clogging and creating whiteheads and blackheads.This is why so many companies are releasing sulfate-free cleansers, shampoos, and body washes. If you’d like to try a sulfate-free shampoo on the cheap, simply buy a bottle of Johnson’s & Johnson’s baby shampoo.

Stearic Acid and Cetyl Alcohol – Also very common in skin care products and some cosmetics. These ingredients can create a sludge on the facial pores which can eventually lead to whiteheads, blackheads or pustules (the mound type acne similar to cystic acne). Alcohol based ingredients can also be overly drying to your skin… which believe it or not, can certainly cause a breakout.

List of Cosmetic Irritants: Scale of Comedogenic and Irritant Potential of Cosmetic Ingredients
(0 =Least likely to cause acne; 5 =Most likely to cause breakouts)